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Does My Vehicle Have Shocks, Struts, Or Both

Thu, 30 Apr 2026 15:01:53 GMT

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When you pull into our service bay and tell us that your car is feeling a bit bouncy or that you heard a loud thud over a speed bump, the conversation usually turns to your suspension. Almost immediately, we see a look of confusion when we mention shocks or struts. Most people think they are the exact same thing, but they are actually two distinct ways of solving the same problem. Some vehicles have four shocks, some have four struts, and a huge number of modern cars actually use a combination of both.

At our shop, we believe that knowing what is under your car helps you take better care of it. You do not need to be a certified master technician to identify your suspension type. With a flashlight and a quick peek behind your front and rear wheels, you can solve the mystery yourself. Here is our guide on how to tell what your vehicle is using to keep the rubber on the road.

The Visual Identification Test

The easiest way to tell the difference is by looking at the shape and how the part is mounted. If you turn your front wheels all the way to one side and look into the wheel well, you are looking for one of two things.

A shock absorber looks like a long, slender cylinder or a telescope. It is usually bolted to the frame at the top and the suspension arm at the bottom. It stands alone, meaning the large coil spring that supports the car is sitting somewhere else nearby, usually on its own perch. Shocks are simple, effective, and very common on the rear of trucks and older SUVs.

A strut is much beefier. It is a large, structural unit that actually has the coil spring wrapped around it. The spring and the dampening unit are one single assembly. If you see a giant metal spring coiled around the middle of the cylinder, you are looking at a strut. Because the strut is a structural part of the steering, it is almost always what you will find on the front end of modern cars and crossovers.

Common Configurations We See in the Shop

Every manufacturer has a different philosophy on ride quality and handling, but most vehicles fall into a few predictable patterns.

Front Struts and Rear Shocks: This is the most common setup for drivers like sedans, minivans, and small SUVs. The struts in the front handle the steering and weight of the engine, while the simple shocks in the back manage the trunk load and provide a smoother ride.

Four-Wheel Struts: Many high-performance cars and modern independent-suspension vehicles use struts at all four corners. This provides very precise handling but can be more expensive when it comes time for a full suspension overhaul.

Four-Wheel Shocks: You will typically find this on heavy-duty trucks and body-on-frame SUVs. These vehicles often use a different type of front suspension, like a double-wishbone setup, where a standalone shock is tucked inside or next to the spring.

Why the Difference Matters for Your Wallet

Knowing which one you have is important because the repair process is quite different for each. Replacing a shock is generally a straightforward task. Since it is not holding the car up, we can usually swap it out relatively quickly without disturbing the rest of the vehicle.

Replacing a strut is a bigger job. Since the strut is a structural member, removing it means the entire corner of the suspension comes apart. Because the spring is under thousands of pounds of pressure, we have to use specialized equipment to safely disassemble the unit. Furthermore, because struts dictate the angle of your wheels, you will almost always need a professional alignment after a strut replacement to prevent your tires from wearing out in a few hundred miles.

How to Tell if They Are Worn Out

Regardless of whether you have shocks or struts, the warning signs of failure are the same. These parts are filled with oil and have internal valving that eventually gets tired. If you see oily grime leaking down the side of the metal cylinder, that is a dead giveaway that the internal seal has popped.

You can also try the classic bounce test. Go to one corner of your car and push down hard on the bumper. If the car pops back up and stops, your suspension is doing its job . If it continues to bob up and down like a boat on the water, your dampening is gone. You might also notice that your car dives forward when you hit the brakes or feels unstable when you are driving in a crosswind on the highway.

Let Us Take a Look Under the Hood

Suspension issues can be sneaky. Sometimes a car feels fine on smooth pavement but becomes a handful the moment the road gets rough. If you are not sure what you have or if you are worried that your ride has lost its factory-fresh feel, bring it by Highlands Complete Auto in Sebring, FL.

We can put your vehicle on the lift and show you exactly what kind of system you have and what condition it is in.

Why the Check Engine Light Should Never Be Ignored

Tue, 31 Mar 2026 12:14:16 GMT

A check engine light has a bad reputation because it can come on even when the car still seems perfectly usable. The engine starts, the vehicle drives, and nothing feels severe enough to force an immediate change in plans. That is exactly why people put it off. The warning feels abstract until the car begins acting up in a way that is harder to dismiss.

That delay is where a manageable repair can start growing into a much larger one.

Why The Light Comes On In The First Place

The check engine light is not a maintenance reminder. It is the vehicle’s way of telling you the computer has detected a fault in the engine, emissions, fuel, ignition, or control system. Some of those faults are minor in the beginning. Others point to a problem that is already affecting how the engine runs or how cleanly it burns fuel.

A car does not need to run terribly for the light to come on. Modern vehicles watch sensor readings and system performance closely, so they can spot trouble before the driver feels a major difference on the road.

Why The Car Can Still Feel Fine

Some drivers assume that if the engine feels normal, the warning must not be very important. The problem with that thinking is simple: the computer can catch issues early, long before they become obvious from the driver’s seat. A weak oxygen sensor, a small EVAP leak, an early ignition problem, or a fuel-control issue can trigger the light while the car still feels mostly normal.

That does not make the warning harmless. It means the vehicle is giving you a chance to deal with the problem before it gets worse.

Small Problems Rarely Stay Small

A check engine light can start with something as simple as a sensor fault or emissions leak. Left alone, that same issue can start affecting fuel economy, throttle response, idle quality, or catalytic converter life. What began as one fault code can gradually pull more parts into the problem.

That is why timing matters so much here. Catching the issue early keeps the repair focused. Waiting gives the fault more room to cause extra wear, heat, or stress in nearby systems.

What The Light Can Be Warning You About

The range is wide, which is another reason the light should not be ignored. A few common causes include:

A loose or failing gas cap
A bad oxygen sensor
Worn spark plugs or failing ignition coils
A vacuum leak
A mass airflow sensor problem
Catalytic converter trouble

Some of those are more urgent than others. None of them should be treated like a warning that means nothing.

Steady Light vs. Flashing Light

A steady check engine light and a flashing one are not the same thing. A steady light usually means the car should be inspected soon, even if it is still drivable. A flashing light is far more serious. That generally points to an active misfire severe enough to risk damaging the catalytic converter.

If the light is flashing, continuing to drive can get expensive quickly. At that point, it is smarter to stop driving as soon as it is safe and have the vehicle checked right away.

Why Clearing The Light Is Not A Fix

Some drivers try clearing the code and seeing whether the light comes back. That can make the dashboard look better for a little while, but it does not solve the cause. If the problem persists, the light will return once the system detects the fault again.

Resetting the light can also make diagnostic harder if it wipes out useful information the technician could have used. A proper inspection gives you a real answer. Clearing the code delays it.

What Ignoring It Can Cost You

The biggest mistake is thinking the light only matters once the car runs badly. By then, the original fault may have had weeks or months to spread. Fuel economy drops. Emissions rise. Engine performance slips. In some cases, a misfire or running rich can overheat the catalytic converter, turning a smaller repair into a very costly one.

Regular maintenance helps reduce surprises, but once the light is on, the smartest move is to find out why. A code scan and inspection cost much less than replacing parts that failed because the first warning sign went unheeded.

What To Do When The Light Comes On

Start by paying attention to how the car feels. Notice whether the light is steady or flashing. Watch for rough idle, hesitation, lower fuel economy, strange smells, or changes in how the engine responds. Those details can help narrow the cause down faster.

Then schedule an inspection instead of waiting for the problem to decide for you . The earlier the source is identified, the better the odds of keeping the repair simple.

Get a Check Engine Light Diagnostic In Sebring, FL, With Highlands Complete Auto

If your check engine light has come on, Highlands Complete Auto in Sebring, FL, can inspect the vehicle, read the stored faults, and pinpoint the cause before a minor issue becomes a much larger repair.

Bring it in while the warning is still early and easier to deal with.